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An Italian 1700s Chemise: The Pauper Dress

 

The chemise is the most essential layer beneath any dress or costume that involves a corset or stays. This plain white undergarment creates a protective buffer between the skin and the outer clothing, which historically wasn’t washed often. It also softens the experience of wearing structured garments, preventing the discomfort that would come from having boning and stiff fabrics directly against the skin. This chemise was made as the foundational garment to a much larger project, The Pauper Dress from Princess and the Pauper.

closeup photo of chemise neckline
chemise back
front right shoulder of chemise
front of chemise
chemise closeup of front left sleeve
side front view of chemise displayed on dress form

Why White?

Over the centuries, chemises and other undergarments were usually white or made from unbleached cotton or linen, and the reason was surprisingly practical. Historical laundry methods relied on strong soaps and chemicals meant to lift dirt and stains, but those same ingredients could

 easily bleach out dyes or harm fragile fabrics like silk. A simple white underlayer could endure this harsh cleaning process without losing color or structure. It became the dependable garment that could be washed often, worn hard, and still hold up over time.